• Hans Faber

Rowing souls of the dead to Britain: the ferryman of Solleveld

In 2004, a unique discovery was made at an early-medieval grave field of Solleveld, just south of the city of The Hague: a boat grave. Exactly 200 kilometres, perfectly east, across the North Sea, of the legendary boat burial of Sutton Hoo. With this one-of-a-kind found, the Netherlands joined the ranks of ship-burial-countries. A not to be underestimated list. The nation's self-esteem went through the roof. Moreover, it reminds us of the almost 1,500-years-old account of Procopius, in which he describes how the men of this same region ferried souls of the dead to Britain. Have they, in fact, found one of those ferrymen?

In his History of the Wars, written around the year 545, the Greek scholar Procopius of Caesarea describes how souls of the dead are being rowed to the island Britta ‘Britain’. It are the men living on the other side of the sea with Britain, who carry out this macabre job. The coast where these men live, is one dotted with many small settlements, where people fish, till the soil, and are involved in sea trade. According to Procopius, this land is under jurisdiction of the Franks, but the people do not have to pay tribute. Instead, they are tasked with the rewarding activity of dragging souls. Procopius’ description fits very well the lower coastal regions of the Netherlands in the sixth century. Not only because of the economic combination of agriculture and sea trade, but also because it is described as an area under the sphere of influence of the Franks. Comparable with the account in Beowulf of King Hygelac raiding Frisia in the lower river Rhine region in the year 516, but who was killed by the Franks and not by the Frisians. Read our post Ornament of the Gods found in a mound of clay on this disaster.

The course of business for ferrying the dead was as follows.

During the night, the men were awakened by a knock on their door, and by a indistinct voice calling them to do service (this knocking on door by ‘ghosts’ we also know from the legend of the dead Frisians in Switzerland, read our post Make way for the dead!). Next, the men walked to the shore to find their boats prepared and ready to go. They rowed a full night and day to Britain. The boats were heavy, and almost took in water. The men did not see any soul or person. The only thing they heard was when they made landfall on the coast of Britain. A voice called out the names of the souls, mentioning their title and honor. The same happened with the souls of women who disembarked, but then their husband’s honor and position was named. After this, the men hastily rowed back across the sea, but now with a light boat, high on the water.

As to why Britain ended up with all the dead souls, is not being told by Procopius. Of course, the whole story has many similarities with the Greek myth of the ferryman Charon, who ferried the dead across the river Styx. This river separated the world of the living with the world of the dead. Charon had to be paid an obol, a coin, otherwise no crossing was possible. Only, in the account of Procopius the work of Charon was divided over many men. And, the cunning Franks bought off the whole ferry fee as well, and made the Frisians do it. We are curious how this whole arrangement will be affected with the Brexit soon.

Solleveld boat grave

As said, in 2004 an excavation took place at the early-medieval grave field of Solleveld. A grave field known sinds the mid-’50s. Solleveld is part of a dune landscape close to the seashore, around 700 meters away from it. These are so-called old dunes, which were formed about 5,000 years ago. Then, due to a stabilizing sea level, the seashore expanded in western direction, at first. During the Roman Period, the western coastline of the Netherlands still lay several kilometers more to the west. Around 3,000 years ago, the sea got more grip on the sandy coast, and moved east. It coincided with strong dune formation, the so-called young dunes that covered most of the old dunes. These are much higher than the old dunes. This process came to a halt around 1600. The landscape of Solleveld is special, because it is one of the few remaining areas of the North Sea where the lime-low, old dunes are still visible and preserved. More to the north, most old dunes have been dug up to support the growing city of Amsterdam. Everything to make Amsterdam great, of course.

In the proximity of the grave field of Solleveld, more or less continuous habitation has been the case since the Late Iron Age. During the Roman Period, between 150-180, even a small fortress existed with a cavalry unit deployed, locally known as fort Ockenburg. From the end of the Roman Period, population along the coast of the Netherlands dropped, only to recover from mid-fifth century. Over the years, in total 46 graves have been identified at Solleveld. The grave field has been in use between appr. 550 and 650. Of these, 42 were cremations, of which 32 deposited in an urn, and 10 cremation deposits without an urn or jar. Besides cremations, 4 inhumations have been found, of which the boat grave is one. The grave field is within the Frisian cultural tradition, and in line with the excavation at Frankenslag in the city of The Hague (Magendans, 1989). Finds of particular interest are an inhumation of a man with weapons, and, of course, the boat grave. We shall discuss them in a bit more detail. For the full monty, check the research report itself (Waasdorp & Eimermann, 2008).

The inhumation of the man is very rich with weaponry. The grave turned out to be destroyed partially, due to earlier digging activities. The fact only the lower half of the grave and cadaver were missing, was kind of a make up, since most deposits are normally placed on the upper half of the deceased. Orientation of the body was north-south. First of all the grave contained a sword of the so-called spatha type. These are long swords with a double-edged blade. Furthermore, a seax was found, which is a large, single-edged knife. Besides the spatha and seax, another smaller knife, a spear and a shield were placed in the grave too. Interestingly, the shield probably was placed over the head of the cadaver. Lastly, a tinderbox was found, consisting of two flints and a piece of iron. The cadaver was buried in a wooden coffin. The grave is dated sixth century.

artist impression of the warrior of Solleveld by Kelvin Wilson

Then, finally, the boat grave. The grave is dated first half of the seventh century. Although all the wood had vanished, the rivets were still visible. Most rivets were too weak to be preserved. The patron of the rivets gave away wood of clinker-built ships was being used. Almost 90 rivets have been identified. The clinker-built technique is a Nordic tradition. It is an technique whereby hull planks overlap each other, and are fixated with iron rivets. This in contrast with the carvel tradition, whereby hull planks are placed next to each other. The carvel-built tradition is a southern tradition. In the river Rhine area, i.e. Frisia, the clinker and carvel traditions met, and (probably) both were being practiced in the Early Middle Ages. Read also our post It all began with piracy on the different ship types of Late Antiquity and Early Middle Ages in this region.

The grave had the shape of a boat, and was about 5 meters long. Only the sides of the grave were lined with boat planks. The floor was not. Presumably the grave was not very deep, and a burial chamber was created with tilted planks covering the boat. Similar as the two boat graves found at Fallward, north of Bremerhaven in Germany. The boat chamber was probably covered with earth, creating a small burial mound. The skeleton was not preserved, only a silhouette in the soil remained. Some of the clothing attributes have been preserved. These are a bronze fibula, a bronze belt fitting, and five beads. The belt fitting is of the so-called Rheinland type, and can therefore be dated third quarter of the seventh century. Lastly, an awl and two little knifes have been found in the boat grave too.

Some more interesting facts. The fibula is of a similar type found in the grave field of terp (i.e. an artificial settlement mound) Oosterbeintum, near the village Hogebeintum in province Friesland. In Oosterbeintum these brooches were part of female graves, placed on the shoulder. Also, the beads found in the grave suggest we might be dealing with a woman (Van der Tuuk, 2015). The fact that women were buried in boat graves is not uncommon. About thirty percent of boat burials in Scandinavia are of women (Williams, 2008).

artist impression preparing boat grave Solleveld, by Kevin Wilson

Besides the boat grave might have belonged to a woman, a targeted, secondary inhumation took place in the same grave. This reminds of the recent discovery in Vinjeøra in Norway in 2019. Here, first, a man was buried in a boat as part of a burial mound in the eighth century. A hundred years later, the grave was opened and the body of woman, together with boat, was placed inside the boat of the man. In the case of Solleveld, we only know that some time later the boat grave was deliberately opened, and a second cadaver was interred next to the woman.

In concluding, the researchers point out that the grave field of Solleveld was located on a somewhat elevated area. Furthermore, they have identified numerous traces of wooden poles which must have dotted the field. They suggest these poles were part of the ritual landscape of this grave field, given the patrons they saw, but that more research has to be done.


Indeed, Procopius was so wrong. It were not men ferrying the dead to England. It were women.

A bit more serious, the fact a boat grave has been found is interesting because it fits the existing views of a shared North Sea culture, of which Frisia was part during early-medieval times (IJssennagger, 2017). Especially the southern Scandinavian influence during the mid-sixth century, was significant (Nicolay, 2005). Boat burials might have been part of that, although with less grandeur and frequency of their neighbors.

Comparable to Scandinavia, (even more) in Frisia boat burials were the exception, not the rule. Why making this exception anyway, is still a big question mark. Archaeological artifacts and traces for long have not been viewed from a perspective of (religious) rituals. And, understanding rituals from these data is terribly troublesome as well (Nieuwhof, 2017). However, deposits of remains of the dead, and of grave fields as such, might have fulfilled a role in binding the soil to the community, in forming a common history and identity, and might even have been relevant politically.

Boat graves were, as said, an anomaly. Some scholars see a parallel with the Nordic mythology of the god Freyr and his ship Skíðblaðnir, meaning ‘assembled from thin pieces of wood’. Or, others say, it was a political statement. Or, was it a woman who originated from the British Isles? (Dijkstra, 2011) However, it might go a bit deeper than all this. With simple, non-princely boat burials, like Solleveld, Skamby or Fallward, the significance of early-medieval boat burials must have been more than only to honor the elite and make a statement. The suggestion might be that the chosen persons for this special funeral treatment, were also to fulfill a continuous, active role between the world of the living, the community, and that of the dead. With the boat ferrying between both worlds, expressing the motion (Williams, 2014).

And so, we made a full circle with the antique myth of ferryman Charon, and with the account of the Greek scholar Procopius. A liaison-concept stemming from the dawn of humanity, although moderated into many different variations through time.

Charon at work

Note: If interested in more ancient rituals concerning the dead, read out blog posts How to bury your mother-in-law and Groove is in the Hearth.

Note: The Frisia Coast Trail does not call at Solleveld, The Hague but the E9 European Long Distance Path (Nederlands Kustpad: 2.1) does, nearly.

Note: Map of boat burials:

Suggestion for further reading

Dewing, H.B. (transl.), Procopius. History of the Wars (1972)

Dijkstra, M.F.P., Rondom de mondingen van Rijn & Maas. Landschap en bewoning tussen de 3de en 9de eeuw in Zuid-Holland, in het bijzonder de Oude Rijnstreek (2011)

Fernandez, C., Found, the Viking war lord buried in his boat: 1,000-year-old tomb of Norse invader and weapons of war (2011)

Geologie van Nederland. Een tijdreis van 500 miljoen jaar (website)

Hansen, F.K., Mysterious Viking boat graves unearthed in central Norway (2019)

Heeringen, van R.M. & Velde, van der H.M. (eds), Struinen door de duinen. Synthetiserend onderzoek naar de bewoningsgeschiedenis van het Hollands duingebied op basis van gegevens verzameld in het Malta-tijdperk (2017)

Heijden, van der P., Romeinen langs de Rijn en Noordzee. De limes in Nederland (2020)

IJssennagger, N.L., Central because Liminal. Frisia in a Viking Age North Sea World (2017)

Karasavvas, Th., 1,000-year-old Viking boat burial discovered under market square in Norway (2017)

Lewis, S., Archaeologists uncover 1,000-year-old Viking ship burial site in Norway (2020)

Magendans, J.R., & Waasdorp, J.A., Franken aan de Frankenslag (1989)

Nicolay, J., Nieuwe bewoners van het terpengebied en hun rol bij de opkomst van Fries koningschap. De betekenis van gouden bracteaten en bracteaatachtige hangers uit Friesland (vijfde-zevende eeuw na Chr.) (2005)

Nieuwhof, A., Eight human skulls in a dung heap and more. Ritual practice in the terp region of the northern Netherlands, 600 BC – AD 300 (2015)

Procopius of Caesarea, Yπὲρ τῶν Πολέμων Λόγοι, Hypèr tōn Polémon Lógoi ‘Words on the Wars’ (ca. 545)

Rundkvist, P.M.O. & Williams, H.M.R, A Viking boat grave with amber gaming pieces excavated at Skamby Ostergotland Sweden (2008)

Tuuk, van der L., De Friezen. De vroegste geschiedenis van het Nederlands kustgebied (2015)

Vertegaal. K., Holland’s duinen. Informatie over het duinonderzoek in Berkheide, Meijendel en Solleveld (2009)

Waasdorp, J.A. & Eimermann, E., Solleveld. Een opgraving naar een Merovingisch grafveld aan de rand van Den Haag (2008)

Williams, H.M.R., Manx Vikings 1: Balladoole (2015)

Williams, H.M.R., Memory through monuments: Movement and temporality in Skamby’s boat graves (2014)