Comb as You Are, as You Were

Hans Faber
Nov 10, 2024
6 min read

Updated: Jul 26

There are theories suggesting that the tribal name 'Frisians' originates from the Old Frisian word frisle, meaning ‘lock of hair’—a term that may itself derive from Latin (Van Renswoude 2012). Compare, for instance, the French verb friser, meaning ‘to curl’. While this etymology is incorrect—the true origin relates more to hauling earth and manure (see our blog post A Severe Case of Inattentional Blindness: The Frisian Tribe’s Name)—it is still intriguing how many early-medieval combs have been unearthed in former Frisian territory. If nothing else, it proves that those ancient Frisians were not bald. Unfortunately, archaeological research rarely explores what kinds of hairstyles these combs were meant for. So, we turned to a seventy-four-year-old hairdresser for a brief consultation.

In the Early Middle Ages—as well as in periods before and after—combs were likely common objects of daily use. At the same time, they may have carried symbolic or social significance (Pil 2015).

A recent and excellent article by Rijkelijkhuizen (2024) offers the first comprehensive overview of hair combs in Frisia during the Early Middle Ages. While much research remains to be done, the study reveals that, at least from the Carolingian period onward, combs were locally produced within Frisia. This region includes the terp area in the north and the coastal zone in the western Netherlands. The early-medieval emporium of Dorestad, located at the lower reaches of the River Rhine, was another important center for the production of combs made from bone and antler (Van Riel 2017). These findings challenge the long-held assumption that such items were crafted by itinerant artisans. And if reindeer antler could be imported from Scandinavia to Frisia, why not export finished combs across northern and north-western Europe? It would surely have been more cost-effective than moving craftsmen around for a relatively modest consumer good.

Rijkelijkhuizen (2024) also observes a remarkable diversity of comb styles in Frisia, especially in the terp region. This suggests a cultural melting pot of comb-making traditions from across Northwest Europe.

Typologies of early-medieval combs are based on provenance, age, material (antler, bone, ivory, wood, etc.), shape (symmetrical or asymmetrical), decoration, and construction (barred, composite, single- or double-sided). However, these classifications rarely reflect differences in function—aside from general grooming purposes. Combs were used for head hair, beards, and moustaches, whether to enhance appearance or manage lice. In some cases, they may also have served decorative or ritual roles.

Although wooden and iron combs are known from the Roman period, they became rare during the Middle Ages (Pil 2015). Bone and antler from various (often imported) cervids—such as reindeer, roe deer, fallow deer, red deer (possibly from the Veluwe), and elk—were the primary materials used. Antler was preferred for its lightness and flexibility. Over time, however, bone increasingly replaced antler as the dominant raw material. This shift likely resulted from the growing scarcity of antler due to increased demand, spurred by population growth (of people with hair), combined with intensified hunting and deforestation, which further reduced cervid populations. Rising demand, dwindling supply.

So, we consulted a local expert: hairdresser Francisca Bouwens from the port town of Harlingen in the province of Friesland. With nearly sixty years of experience behind the scissors, she seemed the perfect person to help us out. We asked her to assess the possible uses of several combs featured in the article by Rijkelijkhuizen (2024). Without providing any background or context, we simply placed the images in front of her. Her responses were as follows:

comb De Lier, Frisia — Fries Museum — Rijkelijkhuizen 2024

This so-called longbone comb type was found near the village of De Lier, a settlement in the province of Zuid Holland, part of former West Frisia. Longbone combs are most numerous between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries (Rijkelijkhuizen 2011). According to coiffeuse Bouwens, this comb is similar to combs used for thick and long hair, suited for frizzy hair.

note — Settlement De Lier is first mentioned in the year 985 when Holy Roman Emperor Otto III gave a benefice to Dirk II, the count of West Frisia. The charter said ‘inter duo flumina que vocantur Liora et Hisla’, which translates as ‘located between the rivers that are called Lier and IJssel’. Liora or Lier was the name of a tidal creek connected to the mouth of the River Meuse flowing into the North Sea. The name Liora could mean something like ‘the clear water’ (Van Duijn 2020), compare with the Swedish water toponym Ljur(a) meaning ‘light/bright’ (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).

comb Frisia — Fries Museum — Rijkelijkhuizen 2024

This is a so-called barred comb made of antler and was found at the small village of Finkum in the province of Friesland, part of former Mid Frisia. It is dated to the fifth century. According to coiffeuse Bouwens, this comb looks like it was used for ornamental purposes, probably for pinned-up hair. Most probably for women, not men, with long hair.

note — The name of the settlement Finkum has no clear explanation. Oldest attestation is only in the year 1335, written as Finckum (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).

This composite double-sided comb is made of antler and was found in the terp Ondersma near the village of Hallum in the province of Friesland, part of former Mid Frisia, too. It is dated to the fifth century. This is, according to coiffeuse Bouwens, a standard comb. “These combs have on one side teeth that are very close together in order to remove lice and nits”, Bouwens added.

note — Settlement Hallum is first documented in the year 1136 as Hallem. Probably this means as the place where a great hall used to be (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018). A possible hall of the local leader has been identified at Hallum, dating eight-ninth centuries. It is a circa 18.2 meters long and 6.2 meters wide, single-isled building. Contrary to the other buildings with walls made of turfs/clay sods, its walls are also made of wood (Postma 2020, Nieuwhof 2023). In the province of Zuid Holland another Hallem existed, today known as the village of Egmond-Binnen. Again, here too an early-medieval hall of a local big man is believed to have existed (Dijkstra 2011).

This composite double-sided comb was found near the town of Pijnacker in the province of Zuid Holland not far from the city of The Hague, also part of former West Frisia. It is dated twelfth century. According to coiffeuse Bouwens this is a standard comb too, like the previous.

note — Oldest attestation of settlement Pijnacker is Pinacker, mentioned in the year 1222. The name might translate to ‘pain acre’. So, plough land or farmland where possible a place of punishment or execution used to be (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).

Conclusion

We humble hikers of the Frisia Coast Trail have no idea whether archaeologists have ever consulted hairdressers to help determine the specific function of early combs. But we believe this small experiment suggests that such input might offer valuable insights into historical grooming habits and hairstyles.

Note 1 — Vanity was everywhere. Even Frisians who participated in Viking raids took with heir comb. All the way to the west coast of France. Archaeological research has confirmed this (Bolle, Ciesielski & Torchut 2025)

Note 2 — If interested in more lifestyle of early-medieval Frisians, like jewellery, haircut, cloths, shoes and so on, check our blog posts Odin’s Ravens ruled over the southern shores. Not the Hammer of Thor, Ornament of the Gods found in a mound of clay, Haute couture from the salt marshes, Terrorist Fighters from the Wadden Sea. The Era of the Crusades, and Boots made for walkin’.